We travelled on to
Biarritz where we managed to find a Maccas in the suburbs and a very nice
camping spot for the night. We played cards and stayed awake until midnight
when the Maccas closed planning the next stage of our trip. I was exhausted but
could not get to sleep, consequently Ross woke up, did a small amount of
shopping at the nearby Intermarche, while I struggled to rouse myself from
slumber. By the time I woke, the day was bright and sunny and Ross was keen to
get moving, but not before French toast and blueberry jam! A (very) quick
shower and we were on our way, but first we made a pit-stop (literally) at the
mechanics across the road and managed to have our sliding step repaired. (It
had been damaged by a huge tree root in the campground in Lisbon.)
We travelled
uneventfully through countryside with magnificent views of the Pyrenees all the
way to Lourdes. I marvelled at their awesome beauty and enjoyed taking photos
of the snow-capped peaks. It must be cold up there as it was a warm and sunny 16C
down here! Things took a turn for the worse when we reached Lourdes. We were
following the signs to “La Grotte”, when I missed a turn and we drove on across
the river until we could find a spot to turn around. Ross navigated through
one-way, narrow streets until we reached the turn we’d missed.
Through the almost deserted village of Lourdes, we drove down to a carpark on the river. I grabbed my cape as soon
as I felt the breeze, and I was glad I did because it was quite cold walking
along the river to the grotto. It’s obviously a very special place to many
people, with a very interesting history. It was only in the mid 1800s that the
little girl Bernadette, who lived nearby, saw an apparition of Mary while she
was gathering firewood. Over the next five months, she saw her 15 more times,
and then never saw her again. Apparently, she was told to build a chapel on
this spot, and build a chapel they did, an enormous, gold-lined cathedral right
beside the river and actually on top of the grotto where the spring water still
flows. I touched the water dripping down from the roof of the cave, but I
didn’t drink it. It’s supposed to heal many things but I think old age isn’t
one of them!
After our blustery
walk and not having eaten since breakfast, we let our trusty GPS take us to McDonalds
for a burger as all the patisseries in the village were closed. After several
hairy wrong turns and one-way streets, we arrived at our destination- an empty
building! Bloody GPS!
We decided to head
out of town and find the Maccas ourselves which we did. I ordered a huge bacon and blue cheese burger
with wedges which was the yummiest meal I’ve ever had at Maccas, and Ross had
chicken strips, chicken nuggets and cheese balls which I helped him devour.
Stuffed, we decided to change our planned route- again- and head for Toulouse.
The GPS suggested
an Aire de Camping-Cars (overnight place for motorhomes to park) so I dutifully
followed it through winding, indescribably narrow and bumpy lanes, which just
kept going and going and ended up getting us nowhere. I was beyond having kittens. Ross was very
tired and we both started laughing hysterically at the ludicrousness of our
situation. All I wanted to do was to avoid situations like this and here I was
smack in the middle of it! All Ross wanted to do was to dins a place to park
for the night!
We pulled over to
the side of the road with warning lights flashing, as everyone does, and
located another Maccas on the GPS. The only problem was we had to renegotiate
every street we had driven in on, but in the opposite direction, until we found
the Maccas in a Campanile Hotel carpark. We walked in to locate the toilets and
ended up sitting down in front of a log fire enjoying a McFlurry, and the
ambience of this very different McDonalds, decorated like a large chateau or
hunting-lodge; definitely not like any other Maccas we’ve seen, and unlike all
of the others, quite and peaceful.
Cultured Toulousians must have other restaurants to frequent unlike the
people of Zamora where it must have been the only decent eating-place in town.
Just as we were
preparing to retire for the night, a huge storm hit rocking the camper and
pelting rain every which way. The wind has subsided but the rain continues
unabated. Let’s hope it blows itself out and it ‘s fine and sunny tomorrow as
we are heading of to see the Millau Viaduct. PS The temperature has dropped to
6C!
After coffee,
cereal and shower, we set off. It wasn’t raining, but that very soon changed.
The beautiful French countryside surrounded us on all sides, and we drove
through some cute little villages, which had had snowfalls last night, and the
snow was still on the ground in patches, and on the tiled roofs of the village
houses. Just beautiful! It was a cool 2C outside so we didn’t stop until we
reached “l’Aire du Viaduc de Millau” after paying 11.60 euro for the privilege
of seeing the bridge. I suppose they have to pay for it somehow. We pulled into
the parking lot and proceeded to rug up, and I mean rug up- it was bitterly
cold and raining! Ross decided to return to the warmth of the camper while I
intrepidly trudged up the path to the top viewing point on my own; there was no
one else in sight. Let me tell you-it was totally worth it. It stopped raining,
and the views were “magnifique”, even without the bridge!
I managed to take
a few photos before my hands began to freeze, and I hightailed it back to the
warmth of our camper, where I thawed out with a hot coffee and ham and melted
cheese bagel.
After checking
with the tourist office, we decided to head south to Montpellier as our only
alternative was to go over the bridge, drive for a few kilometres before
turning around and paying another 11.60 euro to go back over the bridge and
head north again.
We saw a sign for
a Total petrol station, which also had a knife and fork and a parking area, so
we decided to call it a day. So here we
are in Aire du Caylar enjoying a coffee and the warmth of a huge cafeteria,
with a huge selection of meals including the best array of desserts I have seen
so far. Fill a plate for 4 euro! I’m going to wait until later and try a little
of everything! It’s a 24 hour cafeteria so a midnight snack sounds good!
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